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away from the maddening crowd: day trips from prague
By Author: Sandra Hoffman
E-mail: Hoffman1@mediaone.net
Submitted on Tuesday 18th January 2000
As one of 60,000 American tourists in Prague, not to mention all the Europeans there too, I thought it would be nice to go for one-day trips outside the city. I had fallen in love with the Czech glassware, the modern kind, that combined the clear with gorgeous tones of cobalt blue, deep red, emerald green or black. My friend and guide Katie, found out where the factory was. I figured I could get things cheaper there than in the city. She also wanted to stop and show me two castles on the way back to Prague.
So early one morning we set out for the Caesar Crystal Factory, (open from 7 am to 3 pm). We headed towards Brno on the E50 and took exit 90, in the direction of Svetla n Saz(avou). As we went through town we saw a faded blue sign on the right, partially hidden by foliage, and then the street sign that said Josefodole (where the factory was) pointing to the right. We turned right and found the factory at the end of the road. The shop was in the house behind the red gate, and we had to ring the bell to get in. They had some lovely crystal and it was all on sale. They take charge cards, but do not ship. That limited how much I could buy, which was good for my pocket book, but made deciding longer, because it was all so beautiful.
Our first stop on our way back to Prague was Sternberk Castle. Back we went on the E50 and took exit 41 in the direction of Sternov. We just followed the signs to the Castle. (Open 9-5, closed Mondays and November through April. Open only on weekends in October.) This is one of the few castles in Bohemia that is privately owned. Originally erected on a stone promontory around 1242, with the Sazava River on one side and a narrow gorge on the other, it was rebuilt in the early 1500s and refurbished in the 1760s with furnishings that are still there. The Knight’s Hall is the largest and most decorative hall in the castle. The various lounges with their intricate designs, artwork and picturesque furnishings depicting the lifestyle in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, make this a most enjoyable and worthwhile castle to visit.
Our last stop on the way back was Konopiste Castle, one of the Czech Republic’s major royal castles. Back again on the E50, continuing towards Prague, and took exit 21, then the E55/3 in the direction of Benesov. From there we followed the directions to the castle. (Open 9-12 and 1-5. Closed Mondays and November through March. About admission for English tour.) Around 700 years old it was the final home of Francis Ferdinand II, Archduke of Austria, who in 1914, along with his wife, was assassinated in Sarajevo, triggering WWI. There are three separate tours each showing a different aspect of this richly decorated, elegantly furnished (mostly original) castle. We found Tour three to be the most interesting, as it covered the personal apartments of the Archduke.
Another day Katie took me to Karlstejn Castle. Although quite imposing as we walked up the steep hill it sits atop, it was very disappointing. The only thing worth seeing inside is the chapel and that was under restoration and so closed. To offset my dissatisfaction Katie took me to a great restaurant just below the castle, Pod Draci Skalou, Karlstejn 130, PSC 267 11; phone/fax (420)311-681-177. Set in the woods, it had a warm, hunting lodge atmosphere with antlers and animal skins on the walls. It featured wonderful food at very reasonable prices. In winter they serve wild animal meat such as boar and deer. I had their beef steak (we call it minute steak) in a delicious mushroom sauce and Katie had the beef with a blue-cheese topping. The bill came to .50 for two including wine and tip. They also offer one double room and two triple rooms with TV, satellite, and bathrooms. 400 crowns (about ) per person. Czech music entertains the guests in the evenings and in nice weather they have (non-lethal) dueling contests and jousting on horseback. (Closed the first week in June and not available July and August. Getting there: About 17 miles from Prague. By car you take the D5 south from Prague. You must go through Morina to get there. If you are planning on staying overnight, you can also make arrangements for them to pick you up at either the Karlstejn bus or train station.)
On my last day in Prague Katie took me to one of the most fantastic castles I have ever seen, Hluboka (phone 42038/965045). This fairy-tale castle is fabulously decorated in neo-Renaissance, with the walls and ceilings covered with hand carved wood panels that took seven men 25 years to complete. Entrance fee about . Open 9-12 and 12:30 to 5. Closed Mondays and the months of November through March. We had to drive to Ceske Budejovice, and followed the sign that said "centrum." From there we followed the signs to zamek (castle). Then followed the signs to Hluboka n. Vlt. It was about 17 km from Ceske Budejovice. A glorious ending to a glorious trip.
Katarina Sklenarova is a young, enthusiastic guide who can show you nontouristy places and great restaurants in and outside of Prague. She is a careful, responsible driver. /hr. + about /day for gas. Vsehrdova 7/440, 11800 Prague 1, phone 011-4202-534-744; e-mail: vladimir.sklenar@koncept.cz (subject line: For Katie).
