A week in the Philippines
Jonathan Mitchell, Taipei
I can’t remember reading much about the Philippines in my four years as a GT member, here’s a brief account of a week I spent this month in North Luzon.
My arrival in Manila from Taipei was inauspicious indeed as the Philippine Airlines: was inexplicably delayed by 1 ½ hours, possibly due to the typhoon which just missed Taiwan and hit China with devastating effect. Was not a good time to arrive in Ma Ms, as all information desks were closed and I had to persuade a customs employee to sell me some pesos as the banks were likewise. Manila taxi drivers refuse to use their meters, coupons can he bought inside the airport, though at 280 pesos (£7) for the five mile ride Malate, they’re not particularly cheap.
I stayed at New Casa Pension at 1602. Guinto, Malate, and can recommend it, as it is clean and safe and Susan, the daytime receptionist, is one of the most helpful and efficient people I’ve met in the hotel trade in many years of travelling. It’s a one minute walk from Pedro Gil LRT (Light Rail Transit) which is Manila’s sole redeeming feature regarding transport Everything with wheels in-Manila is hopelessly crowded, noise and smelly, albeit cheap - but and jeepney rides cost 1 ½ pesos (4p) per trip. Although Manila is a difficult city to negotiate, English’s more widely spoken than any non- English- speaking country I’ve been to except Uganda, but you have to ask your way a lot!
Philippine cities don’t have central bus terminals, which is a major hassle in planning a trip, but the charming Susan came to my aid and worked out which company went to Vigan, a seven hour trip from Manila at a cost of 217 pesos (£5.50). Vigan is a pleasant city, or would be were it not for the smoke of the motorised tricycles, stemming back to the Spanish colonial days. A room in Grandpa’s Inn cost 200 pesos (£5) - all the hotels in Vigan have antique furniture, which would be worth a lot of money in England.
From Vigan I followed the loop road around North Luzon eschewing the villa del Mar resort in Pagudpud as not worth the 300 pesos (£7.50) for the bare room proffered and, continuing by slow local bus, went all the way to Tugnegarao - a nine hour trip along the beautiful coastal road for 7 0 pesos (£ 1.75). After a night at the excellent Georgies Inn (200 pesos/£5) for a huge room and a tour of Tuguegarao’s bus stations, I went through the mountains to the village of Santa Fe (six hours, 180 pesos/ £4.50) where cheap carvings and baskets are to be bought, and back to Manila to catch my flight home to Taipei.
Facts
Visas: Not required for a stay of less than 21 days
Currency: £ 1 = 50 pesos, but US dollars essential in banks outside Manila. The banks make you write down the serial number of each note! Costs Super cheap, especially food, drink, transport and accommodation. Philipino/Tagalog in Luzon, plus many other languages. English widely spoken. Genuinely friendly.
Jonathan Mitchell
Globe September October 1994 vol. 42 No 5