Vanuatu - forgotten archipelago
There are a lot of people dreaming about travel to the tropical islands hidden in the Pacific Ocean. It is now not a time of sailboats going from one island to the other.
The key to travel between the islands is special inexpensive air ticket that allows you to jump from one island country to the other with no obligation of coming back to the point of origin. Airlines of the pacific countries established common Visit the South Pacific Pass tariff that allows you to travel between their capital cities. One segment of air travel costs from 175 to 320 USD depending of the distance to fly. You will find more details on this fare in the internet pagehttp://www.pacificislands.com/air_passes/air_passes.html
Using such ticket you can visit countries which are out of the typical round-the-world air routes. That's what I did during my fourth travel around the globe. I decided to visit archipelago of Vanuatu, country of unspoiled nature - almost unknown in my country. State of Vanuatu lies some 2000 kilometers east of Australia and consists of 82 islands of different size. During the colonial period - until 1980 it was Anglo-French New Hebrides Condominium. Traveler should not expect here monuments or archeological sites. What Vanuatu has to offer is beauty of the nature and folklore.
Port Vila - the capital
Charming, free of skyscrapers capital city, inhabited by 15000 people only lies at the end of picturesque bay of Efate Island. The capital is not large place- still possible to visit on foot. Main attraction Cultural Centre with museum located opposite to the interesting parliament building. In the museum you will find extensive artifact collection. On the slopes of the hill you will find nice samples of the colonial architecture including old Court House with nice view over the bay. It is worth to stroll along the main street - Kumul Highway, packet by duty-free shops, galleries and restaurants. Don't miss here the market - open Thursdays to Saturdays mornings. I enjoyed rows of tropical fruits, vegetables, shells and flowers. Souvenirs like grass skirts are also on sale.
Port
Vila acts as a gateway to the whole country. Almost all foreigners arrive
by air to the Bauerfield airport - just 5 km from the center of Port Vila
(shared taxi cost 400 vatu).
Around Efate
It is possible to rent a car for approx. 60 USD/day and to take round-the-island trip. Going west the first attraction are Mele Cascades (12 km). Locals charge 500 vatu for entrance here, then leave your shoes and walk up the cascades. Guide will help you to cross most difficult parts. It is nice place, it reminds me Dunn River Falls walk in Jamaica but Vanuatu case is longer and wilder. There is picturesque waterfall at the top.
Further
on 132-kilometers loop there are nice beaches, caves, viewpoints, villages,
excellent diving and snorkeling places. All you need to remember is that
local behavior is to ask for permission to enter somebody's land. Permission
is always given, small fee sometimes is requested. Keep in mind that the
round-the-island road is in bad shape - full of holes, broken bridges
and mud. The choice is to take a minibus tour organized by agency... I
recommend also evening tour to the village for tasting of local food,
music and dancing...
Tanna Island
Tanna is second most popular island of the archipelago. It is famous for its
volcano Yasur, custom villages and cargo cults that have grown here.
At the beginning there is one-hour flight by 18-seater. It is advisable
to prearrange island tour if you are coming just for a day or two... Do
not expect paved roads and a/c hotel rooms on Tanna. It is real adventure...
We started with the visit in the custom (traditional) village where the
people still dress and live in traditional ways. Thatched houses, wandering
pigs, kava trees, abundant nature around - all seems like hundreds years
ago. On the nakamal - central place of the village under huge banyan tree
the villagers performed for us traditional songs and dances. And it was
something I never saw anywhere in the world.
The flag attraction of the island is 361-meters high Yasur volcano. They call it "the most accessible active volcano anywhere on Earth". 4WD landcruiser took us to the lava field on the slopes. Then there was 20-minutes climbing up the poor path marked with bamboo poles. Once we reach the rim of crater spectacular show started: every few minutes we watch of smoke and gas that shoot glowing ash and stones into the air. Fortunately for us stone bombs were falling down back to the crater. Crater itself was full of smoke so we did not see the bottom. Tanna hotels offer also night ascends which allows seeing glowing lava and fire in the crater.
Area east of volcano is a place where you can find cargo cult. It all started in forties when John Frum came from the sea with American war transports. Jeeps, plenty of caned goods, cigarettes and medical care dazzled poor locals. Then American disappeared, but locals still expect John Frum to come back. New religion which has attracted many supporters is celebrated through pray and dancing every Friday... They are waiting for John Frum to return with a white cargo laden with riches.
Other islands
They are less developed and offer much modest accommodation. Santo offers world famous diving, snorkeling, bushwalking and of course beaches. Malekula is well known for the colorful folklore of Nambas tribes. South Pentecost specialty are Land Dives (jumps from 25-metres high tower). Ambrym has more active volcanoes. Banks and Torres quite far but are noted for their outstanding handicrafts and traditional dancers. There are also hot springs and fumaroles.
PRACTICALS
Best time to visit Vanuatu is period May to October. Even in the dry season antimalaria pills should be taken anyway to be safe. There are no direct connections to Europe or the USA. Best air access is from Brisbane or Fiji. There are also flights to Port Vila from New Caledonia and Salomon Islands. Tourist information Planing your voyage you can use Lonely Planet ("Vanuatu") and Moon Publications ("South Pacific Handbook") guides. I highly recommend to use also internet resources. National Tourism Office of Vanuatu has huge and very well organized web page in internet. Here is the address: http://www.vanuatutourism.com/homepage.htm You will find there not only the ads of four-star hotels (as it usually happen) but also guesthouses and thatched bures.
Money:1 USD is worth approx.130 vatu (VT). Australian dollar is also often acceptable in the shops. You can use credit card to pay your duties in better hotels, airlines and travel agencies Budget accommodation:
Apart from the resorts and three stars hotels you will find inexpensive lodges and guesthouses on Efate, Tanna, Santo, Malekula and Ambrym. But do not expect luxury there - usually they have share facilities. Motels are slightly better (and more expensive).
Travel around the archipelago:
Practically there is the only one mean of transportation: air. Domestic airline - the Vanair offers Discover Vanuatu Pass that allows you to visit from the capital three outer islands for USD 236. There are also inter-island freighters but they are irregular.
Sample prices:
Twin room with fan in the inexpensive guesthouse - 2500 vatu, a/c room in budget hotel - 9000 vatu. Full day tour by 4WD car - 8000 vatu. Can of pepsi - 120 vatu, can of beer - 350 vatu, bread 1 kilo - 120 vatu, lunch in the bar - 1000, taxi ride in Port Vila - 200, postcard - 40, postal stamp to Europe - 107.