The Globetrotters eNewsletter
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Here is an appeal by Michael on behalf of the American Friends for the
Kigali Public Library (the AFKPL) for help creating Rwanda’s first public
library. Michael is a regular contributor to the Globetrotters e-newsletter.

My wife and I recently returned to the United States from a one-year
journey through Africa. During the last three months of the trip, we enjoyed
the privilege of working in the Prosecutor’s Office of the United
Nations International Criminal Tribunal for Rwanda. As part of the job,
I poured through reams of scholarly texts, investigators’ reports
and trial transcripts and interviewed witnesses during two trips to Rwanda.
The more I learned, the more shocked and disgusted I became. The more
I thought about the events that occurred, the more I questioned humankind’s
decency, its purpose, and its future. In Rwanda, I met with a man who
watched his mother bludgeoned to death, with a woman repeatedly raped
and with a man who snuck his family across the Congolese border in oil
drums. Even now, I sometimes lie awake wondering what is wrong with all
of us. How can we allow these things to occur? Who among us is willing
to participate in such acts? Who among us seeks to profit?

My understanding of the Rwandan genocide developed in stages. After
reading about the country’s cultural history and the events that
occurred leading up to and during the genocide, I finally started to comprehend
what these murderers sought to accomplish. It may sound naïve and
even a bit stupid, but until that point I never could comprehend one person’s
desire to destroy another. Suddenly, the events of the Holocaust, which
I had read about, spoken about and felt sorrow over for years, took on
a cold reality. For the first time, my brain clicked into focus and I
understood the mindset of a people that sought to destroy systematically
the entire population of its self-defined enemy.

With this realization in mind, I visited Rwanda and saw a country devastated
by its own havoc. Years after the tragedy, a palpable sense of ruin hangs
in the air. Commerce functions at a virtual standstill. Street hawkers
carry a threatening gleam in their eyes. Were they once machete-wielding
murderers? You can’t help but wonder. Bullet-ridden, pock-marked
homes and sidewalks with bullet casings protruding from the ground are
common sightings. One senses that so many of Rwanda’s people fell
so far below the edge of decency that they no longer know how to live
without abuse. One wonders what will be the next phase in the struggle
between the Rwandan people. Then one realizes that the simmering depravity
that plagues Rwanda is not localized to that country. So much of Africa
has endured horrific violence. Rwanda’s western neighbour, the Democratic
Republic of the Congo, is the inspiration for Joseph Conrad’s Heart
of Darkness.

Having returned to the United States armed with little but a sense of
helplessness and the desire to cause positive change, I teamed up with
some dedicated people and joined the American Friends for the Kigali Public
Library (the “AFKPL”). In connection with a Rwandan chapter
of the Rotary Club, we are working to build Rwanda’s first public
library. It is our hope that the library will serve as a place of solace
for the wounded, a haven of intellectual growth for the curious and bedrock
of enlightenment for all. We have already begun construction on the library,
obtained commitments for book donations from publishers and we have raised
approximately $750,000 of our $1,200,000 budget.

If anyone would like to donate his or her time, money or books to the
cause, please do not hesitate to contact me at "mailto:mrakower@hotmail.com">mrakower@hotmail.com.

We have more information about the AFKPL, which includes its contact
information. If you would like to see this, please e-mail me. Also, for
those of you living in England, an organization at the University of Oxford
called the Marshall Scholars for the Kigali Public Library is contributing
to the new library. Zachary Kaufman (zachary.kaufman@magdalen.oxford.ac.uk)
is the contact there.

As a fellow Globie, I appreciate your support. Together we can cause
positive change.

Sincerely, Michael Rakower

The World’s Top 5 Cleanest Countries

1. Finland
2. Norway
3. Canada
4. Sweden
5. Switzerland

New Zealand comes 6^th, Australia 7^th,
the US 11^th, the UK 16th.

Source: "http://www.aneki.com/lists.html">http://www.aneki.com/lists.html

You know when you’ve been Dengued. Or do you???

After spending two weeks in the south of Thailand, I caught an over
night bus from Sarat Thani back to Bangkok. That morning, to my surprise
I managed to reschedule my flight due out the following day to Australia.
Delighted that I had extended my stay in Thailand I went out that night
and celebrated.

After sleeping for four hours, I woke with a rumbling stomach. I tried
to ignore it. Dozing in and out of consciousness, my bowels decided that
I needed to perch on the toilet. In Thailand, this seemed hardly unusual
and I was not alarmed until daylight appeared: I realized I had been decorating
the toilet at least ten times in three hours. Was I glad not to be on
that fourteen-hour flight to Australia!

I had a persistent headache throughout the day and I noticed a pain
in my lower back had become worse. That afternoon I went to the cinema.
While seated the pain in my back spread down into my legs. Constantly
fidgeting, I struggled to concentrate on the movie. The walk back to the
house was exhausting so I went straight to bed.

OK so every one has been ill or felt pain at some point in life. Independent
self-diagnosis of symptoms overrides concern about our well being and
we often think nothing of it. Let’s look at the symptoms:

Diarrhoea - Is that not compulsory when travelling abroad?

Back pain – My backpack, one week sleeping in a wooden hut and
then the overnight bus …..

Fever – What fever? It was the beginning of May - 40 degrees centigrade
plus - Thailand's hottest time of year. The rainy season was building
up and the air was extremely close.

Headache – Not much sleep recently, possible dehydration from
the heat and, … erm …. hangover.

Leg ache – Did I drink any cheap Thai whiskey last night?

The next morning, I was no better. Noi, my host, took me to the doctor.
Once inside the hospital, the nurse routinely took my blood pressure before
seeing the doctor. I recounted my symptoms and he suggested I have a blood
test. OK, so I hate needles! It’s not so much that I hate injections
- they just jab into you and then that is it over and done. No, it’s
the searching for a suitable vein first (can understand that, Beetle!).

The nurse hunted up and down my arms and around my hands for ages. Hurry
up, I thought. I started to hyperventilate. Failing on the first vein,
the nurse got some blood on the second. Then another needle appeared with
a clear bag of liquid attached to it. I became nervous again. “What's
it for?” I asked Noi. 'It is to make you strong” she said.
“OK but what is it?” I asked. “Water. Don’t worry.
It is OK” Noi tried to reassure me. “I will come back in six
hours when it is finished.”

Six hours! Now lets slow down a minute. If I go to the doctor back home,
I do not get put on a drip of water for six hours. Promising to drink
plenty of mineral water, and with a recommendation to return in three
days, I left the hospital.

Two days passed and I still felt unwell. I decided to have a flick through
my travel health book. OK, what am I looking for here? I started with
back pain. Sprains. Slipped discs… other types of back pain: Dengue
Fever. What is that, I had never heard of it before. I read the symptoms.
Hang on a minute - back pain yep, fever yep, diarrhoea yep, banging headaches
yep. Oh no! Please don't tell me, I have this …… wait for it …
tropical disease!

I realised it was quite possible. The white-backed mosquito carries
Dengue Fever and outbreaks are particularly common in South East Asia
- where I had been. They generally bite in the daytime. On reflection,
I had fallen asleep in my hut one afternoon and woke up to find a circle
of mosquito bites on my left leg.

I read on: although the symptoms are similar to that of Malaria, I discovered
there is nothing you can do to prevent catching it, except slap on lots
of insect repellent. A vaccine is still in the process of being developed.
The good news is that you cannot catch it from another person. The bad
news is that it is serious. There are four different strains of Dengue
fever. Catching one kind only gives immunity to that strain. There is
also the far more serious Dengue Haemorrhagic Fever, which causes the
sufferer to bleed to death without immediate medical attention. This usually
only occurs in children under fifteen.

Gulp…what if I am infected, am I going to die or be permanently affected
by it?

It was now day three and I was feeling worse than ever. For the first
time in my life, when a doctor has told me to return, I had to obey.

In part 2, Ingrid tells us of her stay in a Thai hospital, visits from
ants and priests and how she recovered!

If you would like to contact Ingrid, who is currently in Chile, you
can e-mail her on: "mailto:gr.ing.a.rid@latinmail.com">gr.ing.a.rid@latinmail.com

Muir’s Tours recently launched their volunteer teaching programme
in Peru and it is proving to be very popular with Gap Year students. They
have now set up another teaching facility in the ancient settlement of
Huancayo where you can experience pre Inca culture and hospitality.

For more information, see "http://www.nkf-mt.org.uk/volunteer_Huancayo_Peru.htm">http://www.nkf-mt.org.uk/volunteer_Huancayo_Peru.htm

Indonesia is the largest archipelago and the fifth most populous
country in the world. Consisting of five main islands and 30 smaller archipelagos,
it has a total of 13.677 of which about 6.000 are inhabited. It stretches
5.120 km (3.200 miles) between Australia and the Asia mainland and divides
the Pacific and Indian Ocean at the equator. The third largest country
in Asia in terms of both population and area after China and India, Indonesia’s
national territory consist for 84 percent of sea and only for 16 percent
of land. The five biggest islands are Kalimantan (539,460 sq km), Sumatra
(473,606 sq km), Irian Jaya (421,952 sq km), Sulawesi (189,035 sq km)
and Java including Madura (132,035 sq km).

It is a destination which offers diverse interests in a great variety
of cultures, scenic beauty of its island, customs and the natural architecture
of green paddy fields, all enveloped in a warm tropical climate.

SUMATRA

Sumatra, the archipelago’s second largest island consists of an
extraordinary wealth of resources, peoples and cultures. Medan is the
gateway for travel to Lake Toba, the world largest volcanic lake. The
enchanting Samosir island in the middle of the lake is the best place
to observe traditional Batak culture. Adventurous travellers will visit
Mt. Leuser National park, one of the richest in South East Asia, with
unspoiled ecological systems supporting more than 500 species of birds,
3500 species of plants and housing endangered species such as sumatranese
tiger and rhinoceros, elephants, gibbons. Orang utan can be easily approached
in Bahorok rehabilitation center, deep in the dense jungle. Surf lovers
as well as remote culture seekers will find it all in the unique island
of Nias.

JAVA

Java is one of nature’s masterworks: some 120 volcanoes (30 are
still active) have spread over the times fertile ashes supporting an extraordinary
luxuriant vegetation. Such natural blessings were turned to great advantage
by untold generations of Javanese who sculpted rice terraces everywhere
it was possible to. The glorious civilization of ancient java –
producers of masterpieces such as Borobudur and Prambanan temple, was
founded on this agricultural bounty and since the early times, java has
exerted an inordinate influence over the surrounding areas. Today over
110 million of people live here, in an area only as large as England.
(60% of Indonesia total populations). The political cultural and economic
heart of the worlds 5^th largest nation, Java
has no peer as a place to visit. Found here is every imaginable landscape
and treasure. Java is indeed a microcosm of all the wonders and the burdens
of this great island nation.

SULAWESI or CELEBES

Sulawesi or Celebes Island. A glance at any map of Sulawesi, formerly
known as Celebes, immediately highlights the island’s strangest
attribute; its shape. Variously described as looking like an orchid, a
spider or a giant crab, the island four “arms” radiate from
a mountainous core. Despite covering an area nearly as large as Britain,
no place is more than 40 km from the sea. Most people visit the island
to see the Toraja, living in the south province. Their funerals ceremonies,
cliff burial sites and soaring roofed houses makes this culture on of
the most fascinating in the world. Makasar (formerly Ujung Pandang), Sulawesi
largest city is the usual port of entry. Manado on the northern tip offers
some of the best diving in the country and is also becoming increasingly
popular.

KALIMANTAN or BORNEO

Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo is a huge, thinly populated
territory of swamps, jungle, mountains and rivers. Approximately the size
of France, Kalimantan’s 10 million inhabitants make just 5% of the
country population, most of which is concentrated in coastal cities. If
you are looking for jungle and jungle culture, Kalimantan is your destination.
The eastern province is the most popular destination with Balikpapan,
an oil industry center as a gateway. Board a comfortable houseboat and
wind your way slowly up the fascinating Mahakam River into the Dayak people
land. Once known as the force headhunters, the Dayak have for long abandoned
this tradition but have maintained their unique culture and most still
live traditional long houses set on stilts. Banjarmasin in the southern
province has certainly the biggest and most authentic floating market
in Asia and is a good starting point for wildlife expeditions to Tanjung
Putting National Park and the orang utans rehabilitation center at Camp
Leakey.

IRIAN JAYA

Irian Jaya is the largest and most eastern province of Indonesia and
covers the western half of the island of New Guinea, the eastern part
of the island is the territory of Papua New Guinea (PNG). Almost three
quarter of the island consist of high mountains. The rest is wide lowlands,
deep valley, wide muddy river mouths, swamps and jungle. The primitive
cultures of the Irian tribes are of special interest. The Baliem valley
in the central part of Irian Jaya is very well known and the natural beauty
is enhanced by the people’s faithful adherence to their ancestral
customs and traditions.

Well, if you are thinking of holiday trip, or even just information
on any travel requirements in Indonesia, please do not hesitate to contact
us: "mailto:abctour_td@cbn.net.id">abctour_td@cbn.net.id
We will be most happy to assist you.

On the way to Buenos Aires

We only did two visits during the five days it took to drive from Tierra
del Fuego to Buenos Aires (BA) and so we arrived in that capital city
ready for a rest and some comfortable beds! The only problem was, although
our hotel was situated right bang in the centre of BA, we were not only
on a street that was a regular bus route, but arrived at a time when major
road works were going on all over BA and one set of which were right outside
our hotel, so what with traffic all around us, pneumatic drills and revelers
in the early hours, it was difficult to get any sleep! And of course it
was very hot, but not as hot as it had been apparently, when temperatures
had reached 40+. At least our temperatures were more in the high 20s/early
30s.

But BA was an incredible place, with long, extremely wide, roads cutting
across it, all with their names reflecting history - names of specific
dates such as “Avenida de 9 Julio” reflecting I believe their
independence day; others after names of presidents such as “Avenida
de Mayo” etc. We were only there for 5 nights, 4 days, and so spent
most of it trying to get in as much catching up on emails and see as much
of the sights as possible, including a trip to Uruguay for the day.

Of course, we all did our separate things, Judith and I sharing a room
and our experiences and in the end we saw a great deal of the capital
but not enough as it turned out as a lot of the museums were closed on
a Monday (we arrived on a Thursday evening, and were leaving again early
on the Tuesday) so our time was rather limited.

Friday was spent recovering from our epic five day journey and just
looking around the immediate locality, getting laundry done and catching
up on bits and pieces of shopping; Saturday it poured down all day long,
but undaunted Judith and I went to see Eva Perón’s tomb (which
was very low key, tucked away nondescriptly in one of a great number of
rows of mausoleums in a cemetery just off the main central part of BA).
But Judith was enthralled by it and had to have her photo taken in front
of it, which I obligingly did on my camera as she had forgotten hers and
it had been put in the hotel safe as a security precaution!

We also visited a famous part of BA called La Bocca which is really
the slum area of BA but which has been renovated in parts and houses a
thriving arts community. Many of the walls have murals depicting the history
of the area but there are also many art shops and displays to wander around,
besides street musicians and wandering artists, and of course the obligatory
touristy shops! It had a lot of character and we spent the evening there,
having a meal in one of the restaurants and enjoying the experience. To
get there we had travelled on the bus and metro and that was quite an
experience, especially travelling on the bus as although they do stop
at designated bus stops, they will also open their doors and wait for
you if you just signal them, but invariably this has to be when they are
caught in a traffic jam because very often the public buses seem to be
in a great hurry to get somewhere and very often drive straight past bus
stops even when people are queuing there.

On the Sunday we went across to Uruguay for the day - taking the local
ferry across the River Uruguay that took just under 3 hours. We left our
hotel at 8am and took a taxi to the local ferry port, which was teeming
with life. First of all we had to purchase a ticket, and went to one of
the local ferry operators for this and that took some 40 minutes to be
processed and then we had to queue for embarkation and get a stamp exiting
Argentina and another stamp for entering Uruguay, and, of course, on the
way back we had to then exit Uruguay and reenter Argentina.

But the day was brilliantly sunny and so we sat on deck for the entire
outward crossing to Uruguay although on the return journey at 1845 it
was too chilly to do this and so we spent almost the entire journey in
one of the very crowded saloons, jam-packed with the day trippers, locals
as well as tourists.

We went to a place called Colonia. We could have gone to Montevideo,
the capital of Uruguay but it would have been going from one big city
to another, and so chose a “luxury” day trip fare to Colonia,
(much nicer than Montevideo, Iris – Beetle) which is an ancient
town some 150 km down the coast from Montevideo, which is a World Heritage
site because of its old town with some of the original town wall surviving
and lots of its old original houses from the 17th and 18th centuries not
only still standing but still being used as homes and businesses by the
local population, with the proviso they do not alter the structures noticeably.

Our package included a two-course lunch, a guided tour of the new and
old towns of Colonia, and of course the return ferry fare. It proved a
really rewarding day out, as although it was visited by so many, it was
well organized and even the old town did not seem that overcrowded with
tourists and one was able to walk around, admire the old architecture
and the views along the river and learn something of the history of the
place, which was originally settled by the Spanish and then taken over
by the Portuguese and became part of Brazil until it got its independence
in the 19th century.

Monday was spent in BA, catching up on emails, and visiting the opera
house and the presidential palace. Of the opera house, we only got a very
brief inside glimpse as it is closed on a Monday for cleaning and normally
groups are not allowed in. However, Judith is a very persuasive lady and
with her “pretty please” approach, swung us a brief glance inside
the auditorium with its plush furnishings etc. Then we moved on to the
presidential palace, first of all to look at the archives and catacombs
and later to go on a guided tour of the palace itself. Unfortunately,
the guided tour was in Spanish only and so most of the time we had to
be content to just admire the magnificent architecture and furnishings
rather than learn much about its history and unfortunately books in English
on the palace weren’t to be had, but of course, we associated it
with Eva Peron and looked at it all with her image well in mind!

Next month, Iris tells us of her visit to the Iguaçu Falls.

If you’d like to contact Iris, whether to wish her luck with her
trip or to ask questions about her itinerary and places visited, I am
sure she would like to hear from you. She can be contacted on: "mailto:irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk">irisej2002@yahoo.co.uk

The Beetle received this e-mail from a Globetrotters who thought it might
be useful to pass on to other travellers. If you find yourself under the
weather, there is almost always an alternative remedy to finding the local
doctor – but if in doubt, seek proper medical advice.

Easy eyeglass protection: to prevent the screws in eyeglasses from loosening,
apply a small drop of clear nail polish to the threads of the screws before
tightening them.

Tomato puree boil cure: cover the boil with tomato puree as a compress.
The acids from the tomatoes soothe the pain and bring the boil to a head.
(Beetle: applying a piece of tomato against bee or wasp stings can
help soothe the sting.)

Vinegar to heal bruises: soak a cotton ball in white vinegar and apply
it to the bruise for 1 hour. The vinegar reduces the blueness and speeds
up the healing process. (Beetle: vinegar can also be used to take the
soreness away from sunburn.)

If you have any handy hints and tips for medical problems whilst travelling,
write in and let the "mailto:beetle@globetrotters.co.uk">Beetle
know.

U. S. Soldiers Home, Washington: during a century of travel (well
78 years!) both in and out of service I have travelled to over 150 countries
(I count both North and South Dakota as countries) and for some reason
have jotted signs and happenings that I thought funny at the time (and
now wonder why). So here is the perfect opportunity to share some of my
anecdotes.

When I was in Hong Kong a Sir Run Run Shaw (his actual name) had donated
a wing to the Hong Kong Arts Centre (he had a dysentery problem)

The Jardine Center in Hong Kong has a tourist bureau in its basement.
The buildings walls have thousands of round windows. The Chinese refer
to it as the house of 1000 assholes.

Hong Kong Chunk King Mansions (anything but a mansion) (has hundreds
of cheap budget accommodation.) In the Garden Hotel in it (anything but
a garden) the Mama san told a married couple that asked for two towels
“one room, one towel.” My towel and room had not been cleaned
for a week. Each day she would say washee, washee tomorrow but tomorrow
never came. Finally one of my visitors grabbed the towel and took it out
in the lobby to show the other guests how dirty it was. The mama san did
sleep outside my door each night. I don’t know if this was go guard
me or to see that I did not escape.

At the Palace Casino (one of the gambling ships tied to the dock in
Macao) when the dealer found out I was an American asked me if I thought
the CIA had killed Indiri Ghandi in India.

We were not attacked by pirates on ship from Hong Kong to Macau and
the trip was uneventful except while still tied to the dock the Chinese
lady behind me got sick and vomited on me.

In Hong Kong Haw Paw Villa Dragon Amusement Park they have a sign “Students
in uniform (the students wear uniforms) are not allowed to play video
games. (Let’s not disgrace the uniform.)

In Hong Kong I went out to Stanley Military Cemetery. It was just outside
the regular prison (still being used) where Japanese kept British and
other allied prisoners during World War II. The view of the harbour etc
from that site is so beautiful from the prison that it must have been
an extra thorn in the side of the prisoners. The sign at their cemetery
reads “Here lie men from many countries who gave their lives for
freedom. Visitors are asked to behave quietly with respect for those buried
here. In particular games may not be played or food cooked”. 69l
are buried here including many women and children (98 interned civilians.)
One grave reads Unknown Soldier Age 38 years. May he rest in peace. (I
wonder how they then determined his age if unknown.)

I met a man in Hong Kong who had been travelling for twenty years. He
sometimes takes a Holiday within a Holiday in which he does nothing but
rest and then is on the road again. I met him in McDonalds that is behind
the famous Peninsula Hotel in Hong Kong at five o clock in the morning.
It is open 24 hours a day. He gave me tips on budget places to stay around
the world. Some of the places: Lucky Hotel in Bangkok, Private Toilet.
Malacca Malaysia: Robins Nest Hotel $4.80 a night. If you know a robin
looking for a place to stay.

The abandon ship instructions on the ferryboat to Macao from Hong Kong
instructed you to not take your umbrella with you if you have to abandon
ship. What if it is raining?

And finally, the time when I was victim to a scam: I was on an organized
trip and staying at Golden Gate Hotel in Hong Kong. We were told to have
our luggage outside our door at six AM to have it transported for us to
the airport. We then got a second call and were told to have out luggage
out at five AM instead of six and it would be picked up. It was - con
artists made the second call and we never saw our luggage again.

Next month, Mac discusses general travel tips.

If you would like to contact Mac, he can be e-mailed on: "mailto:macsan400@yahoo.com">macsan400@yahoo.com

If you have enjoyed reading this e-newsletter, why not visit the Globetrotters
website, "http://www.globetrotters.co.uk/">www.globetrotters.co.uk
and have a look at a copy of Globe, the bi-monthly printed newsletter
sent to members only.

We also send members only a listing of all members, their contact details
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As a member, you will receive a reduction on any Globetrotters meetings
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to give your details to other travellers you meet while travelling.

Just US $29 or €24 buys you membership for one year. Contact "mailto:gtmembership@globetrotters.co.uk">gtmembership@globetrotters.co.uk
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